Nature is ever at work building and pulling down, creating and destroying, keeping everything whirling and flowing, allowing no rest but in rhythmical motion, chasing everything in endless song out of one beautiful form into another (J. Muir, Our National Parks, 1901)
The desert is a landscape shaped by the destructive forces of water, wind, and sun. Constantly in flux, never the same from one day to the next. Yet its stunningly beautiful: from its coarse sedimentary rocks shaped like meringues, to its massive pillars of red stone and box canyons. Contrast is everywhere: blue sky with red rock, green springs with sand, cacti with rock, grey moonlight with yellow sun. Arizona’s Superstition Mountains and the hills that surround the Phoenix area are no exception. I recently spent ten days exploring the Superstitions and riding local trails at Usery Mountain Regional Park, Brown’s Ranch and the Phoenix Mountain Preserve. Pack your mountain bike, sun screen and plenty of water and head south.
Located 65 kilometers east of Phoenix, the Superstition Mts. are a fantastic mountain biking, bike packing (touring), hiking and camping destination. If you’re riding a bike, stick to state land on the southern edge of the range. Hikers can enjoy the Wilderness area to the north.
This multi-use recreation area is just east of the historic community of Queen Valley and can be accessed via. Highway #60. Hewitt Canyon road winds its way north through gently rolling terrain and some great geo-features such as Hewitt and Roblas Canyon as well as Hewitt Canyon Arch. This roads eventually summits Montana Mountain (5, 528 ft.), where it crosses the Arizona Trail which can be ridden downslope to Hwy. #60.
Brown’s Ranch Single Track
Just thirty minutes north of Phoenix, this popular multi-use trail network is a favorite of local riders. With flowey single-track, interesting geologic features and fantastic views of the Sonoran desert, Brown’s Ranch is a must-ride area.
Usery Mountain Regional Park
Just north of Apache Junction, this regional park has flat valley-bottom riding , some flowey toe-slope single-track and some tough rock-garden ascents and descents. Like all of the Superstition Mountains, the landscapes are stunning.
Phoenix Mountain Preserve and the Phoenix Canal System
Just a few minutes from downtown Phoenix, this multi-use urban park has some great beginners single-track that provides awesome views of the desert, hills and city. If you connect this park with the Arizona Canal Trail, you can enjoy hours of leisurely urban trail riding. This 40 km canal system, runs northwest-southeast through the city. With flat, paved and unpaved trails, often going both directions, the canal is a fantastic ride especially for bikepackers who want an easy traffic-free ride out of the city. This trail system also provides access to many areas of the city including other parks, restaurants and even bike shops such as a the Trailhead Bike Cafe.
Hudson’s Hope, British Columbia is well-known for its massive hydroelectric dam and Williston lake, however, this area also has some fantastic geographic features such as the Portage Mountain Steam Vents. These naturally occurring vents are just outside of town and are accessible by mountain bike, foot or ATV. They also provide great views of the WAC Bennett dam and Williston and Dinosaur lakes. Add this adventure to your summer or winter bucket list: you won’t regret it!
Park at the trapper’s shack on Canyon drive, just west of Hudson’s Hope. Ride to the junction of the power lines and Canyon drive, then follow the lines until they head north. This upslope section is heavily eroded, so you make have to hike-a-bike for 500 meters or more. You will eventually emerge on the bottom slope of a small ski hill. Ride upslope to the lodge, then head east down the road.
Two hundred meters past the ski lodge is a junction, take the narrow road heading east and follow it downslope to the power lines right-of-way. Head north, until the trail switchbacks around and over a small creek, then upslope to a level area. The trail head to the steam vents is just on the east side of the road.
This ATV width trail winds its way downslope along a pine and spruce covered ridge and emerges on the rim of the Dinosaur lake canyon. A short trail runs downslope through an aspen stand then emerges on a grassy slope.
Interestingly, these vents don’t smell like rotten eggs (sulphur) and my guess is that they are more prominent in winter when there is a major temperature differential. There is room for a small camp on the south side of the vents, but you are fully exposed to the elements and there is no water in the area.
These steam vents are the only terrestrial geothermal feature–that I am aware of–in northeastern British Columbia. They are well worth a visit. Furthermore, there are some interesting sand dunes on the northwest side of Portage Mountain. Check out my post about the dunes and the massive earth work Art Project that is located there: Hidden in the Sands.
“8 trout-good fishing, also replaced stove pipe with larger ones 5”. No more smoke in cabin,” wrote Willie Kwiatkowski on December 28, 1977 in a tattered spiral-ring journal.”
This 39 year old journal can be found in the cobweb covered rafters of an old backcountry cabin south of the Tabor Mountain fire tower, near the headwaters of Bowes creek. Called the “Old Trapper’s Shack,” this cabin is just one of the fantastic cultural features found in the Tabor Mountain Recreation Area , just fifteen minutes east of Prince George. If your’e looking for some summer or winter adventure then this area is a must see!
You can access this historic cabin by mountain bike, walking, skis or ATV. Park at the junction of Giscome and Groveburn road, heading south to the junction of the Tower and VOR Forest Service Road. Its all uphill from here. Follow the VOR road east, until you reach the first switchback, where you can see the fire tower to the north. Take the narrow Frost Lake Multiuse Trail for about 1.8 kms, then head south down a narrow trail. This descent is heavily rutted and brushy. The trail eventually flattens out in treed wetland. The narrow trapper’s trail is covered with knee high grass, horsetail, balsam fir and spruce. Follow this trail, north along the edge of the wetland until you see the cabin.
You will have to cross a makeshift bridge over the creek that feeds the wetland. Proceed with caution.
This cabin is dry and drafty with a functioning wood stove. However, there is a a lot of mouse and squirrel waste, so I would not recommend sleeping in the cabin unless it is thoroughly swept out.
While trapping may seem distasteful to some, it was a source of revenue for First Nations and immigrants during the 19th and early 20th centuries. Indeed, there is a small handful of people that still trap this region today.
Cultural features such as this trapper’s cabin are an important source of data on Tabor Mountain’s environmental history. I find it interesting that there were trout–or perhaps there still are–in this wetland, begging the question: how did they get there?
Scenic single-track, stunning views, wildlife and epic cross-country rides are just minutes away from downtown Jasper, Alberta. Even better: these trails are virtually empty in the late fall! Three of my favorite trails include Pyramid to Katrine Lake, the Athabasca River trail (west and east) and the Valley of the Five Lakes network. Check them out this fall or winter–you won’t be disappointed.
For more info about front-country mountain biking in Jasper National Park go to Jasper Travel. You will definitely want a map when exploring this huge network of trails. Download this map produced by Parks Canada. Remember: tell someone where your going, dress for the weather and always bring survival gear.
Northern British Columbia is well known for its accessible mountains, rivers, lakes and unlimited opportunities for adventure: It’s an outdoors person’s paradise! But did you know that the north also has some of the best free five-star accommodations anywhere? Next time you’re planning a backcountry adventure include a stay in one of these luxury cabins.
1. Morfee Mountain
This brand new backcountry cabin is located approximately 15 kilometers up the Morfee Mountain Forest Service Road, just outside Mackenzie, BC. Check out The Morfee Mountain Hop for more info.
2. The “Old Trappers Cabin”
It’s a tough ride into this almost all-inclusive cabin on Tabor Mountain. However, its well worth the effort. Its dry, has a cool wood stove and you get to spend some quality time with a family of mice and some squirrels. Apparently there are rainbow trout in the adjacent wetland. No outhouse included. Check out the Tabor Mountain Recreation Society for access and trail info.
3. The Troll Lake Cabin
This fantastic Tabor Mountain cabin has a great view of Troll Lake and is only a two kilometer ride or hike from Tower Road. While there is no outhouse or functioning wood stove, there is definitely a roof over your head and a door that closes. For access info download the Tabor Mt. Recreation Society access map.
4. McBride Mountain Shelter
Windows and doors are not included in this mid-mountain shelter. However, the 180 degree view of Robson Valley view is second to none. Also included is an outhouse, 50 meters down the road! With a only a 7 kilometer ride, hike or drive up the unmaintained forest service road, you will want to add this chalet to your bucket list. For more info about McBride mountain click on McBride Mountain Madness.
5. McBride Mountain Fire Lookout
If the mid-mountain cabin is booked, then simply ride or hike another 8 kilometers to this alpine retreat. With windows, a door and a roof, what’s not to like about this retreat center?
6. Livingstone Springs Trapper’s Cabin
This heritage cabin is only a seven kilometer ride or hike from Crooked River Provincial Park. With plenty of fresh water, squirrels and mice, you will want to book this accomadation asap.
7. Red (Grizzly Bear) Mountain Backcountry Cabin
All kidding aside, this is an all-inclusive subalpine cabin. Just bring your own food, clothes, and sleeping bag and you’re good-to-go. The cabin includes everything you need for a comfort-filled holiday; from a bbq to cookware, to plush foam mattresses. Grizzly bear, mule deer and caribou frequent the area so you will have lots of company. The outhouse has a stellar view and there is fresh mountain spring water nearby. For more info or to book this cabin go to the Prince George Backcountry Recreation Society.
8. Portage Mountain Trapper’s Cabin
Located approximately 20 kms west of Hudson’s Hope–near Portage Mountain–this streamlined cabin is apparently not open to the public. It’s nice to look at nonetheless.
9. Great West Life Mobility Park Cabin
This dilapidated yet rustic cabin is adjacent to the Prince George Snow Machine Club at the end of Scott Road. Watch out for the collapsing metal sheeting on the veranda and the broken glass inside. It will keep you dry in a pinch. Click here for more info about the Great West Life Mobility Park.
10. The Partially Completed Cranbrook Hill Cabin
This windowless, doorless and roofless cabin is only a short ride from UNBC. You will need a ladder and tarp if you’re spending the night in this unit.
Looking for some alpine adventure with killer views and mountaintop accommodations? Then check out Morfee Mountain. Only two hours north of Prince George, this 5800 foot peak is easily accessed by mountain bike, off-road vehicle or snow machine. With great views of the Rocky Mountains, Williston Lake and Mackenzie, British Columbia, you will definitely want to add this mountain to your bucket list.
Access to this area is via Morfee Mt. Forest Service Road, only a few kms north of the community of Mackenzie off of Highway 39. There is a large gravel lot just off the road near the old blue cabin. You can park and ride from here or drive 15 kms to the subalpine cabin, and start from there. You can also drive all the way to the summit, park and explore the ridge lines.
Adventure mountain bikers and bikepackers will love the 17 km ascent that gains 3400 feet in elevation. This sandy, maintained road winds gradually upslope and has both flat and steep sections, especially in the alpine.
There are ample places to set up camp in the subalpine (approx. 4000 ft.) However, there is a brand new public cabin nearby that may be a better choice on a cold/wet day. This cabin also has a descent pit toilet and fantastic views of the rocky ridges and pristine forests to the east. If your’e lucky you might see some Southern Mountain Woodland Caribou.
Once on top, you can ride or hike the shale ridges running north and southwest. The wind blows hard at the top so remember to pack some warm clothing. For more info about Morfee Mountain check out Dougz’s ClubTread Post.
The hot summer sun was relentless. Portage Mountain’s bold ridge-line loomed in the distance. My anticipation built as I pushed up the gravel access road into one of British Columbia’s unique geographic features: the Portage Mt. Sand Dunes, near Hudson’s Hope. As I crested the hill and emerged on an open bench the wind blew hard off of Williston Lake bending the cottonwood saplings into submission.
Riding towards the eastern rim, I found a large 4×8 ft. sign lying on the ground. Its white background and multi-colored letters seemed incongruous to this desolate dune. It was made of thin aluminum sheeting on plywood. Lifting the sign and gingerly balancing it against a couple of sticks I snapped some pictures. Suddenly, a burst of wind snatched it from my grasp.
What was this? Why was it here? I was curious and slightly unnerved. Someone put serious effort into this sign. I looked around the dunes, but I was alone. The printing was clear in some places and fuzzy in others. A dark black tire mark crossed the center of the sign like a redactor’s slash. Quickly reading the text, ““Peace Sanctuary” by Canadian artist Deryk Houston.” I also noticed Iraq, children and rock. As I rode around the dunes I saw nothing but sand, an infinite number of tracks and a few rock piles.
Unbeknownst to me, beneath the sand in a depression to the north, lay a massive landscape art project consisting of rings with paleolithic-like faces and symbols within the center. Called the “Peace Sanctuary,” this was the first major project of the artist Deryk Houston. While presently only visible from Google Earth, this massive design connects two different countries and cultures, raising awareness about the devastating effects of war in the hopes of creating lasting peace.
Portage Mountain Sand Dunes
Located 23 kilometers west of Hudson’s Hope and adjacent to the W.A.C. Bennett Dam, the Portage Mt. dunes are actually a massive Glacial Moraine. This geologic feature is a result of advancing ice sheets picking up and grinding rocks which are then exposed–on the edges, and at the end–as the ice retreats. Moraines are characterized by unsorted sands, gravels and stones. While this area is well-known to local ATV and dirt bike enthusiasts, I was hard pressed to find any who had actually been there. Fortunately, the local ATV club had posted a .gpx file of the trail network, on the internet, which I downloaded into Avenza Maps on my iPhone 6.
The gravel access road gradually ascends to to a bench which provides a great view of both the mountain and dunes. While easy climbing, the road can be tricky to negotiate due to the loose gravels and stones that cover the surface. It was perfect for a fatbike with four inch tires.
Deryk Houston is a Victoria based Canadian-Scottish artist who has exhibited his work internationally. His farming background, love of working with his hands and a fascination with ancient art forms such as earthworks, spirals and labyrinths has influenced his large public pieces. Houston also paints. His works are characterized by a vibrant mixture of orange, red, blue and black lines, stars, waves, clouds, text, animals and primitive stick figures. He also has created some interesting 2-D paintings. Perhaps more importantly, he is a dogged advocate for peace and those impacted by war, especially Iraqis affected by the first Gulf War, subsequent conflicts and international sanctions.
In 2000 he visited Iraq and installed his “Sanctions Painting” at the Baghdad Arts Center and the following year a “Bomb Shelter” piece in a bombed out building that is now a memorial to those who died in a US attack. In 2002, he exhibited at the “Art for Mankind” show in Baghdad and supervised the construction of a 24 foot bronze sculpture in Iraq’s Peace Sanctuary. The same year he constructed the massive “Peace Sanctuary” stating that his “intention was to help the Iraqi people and try to get the world to understand that bombing only causes other problems…At the same time, it helped to heal my own heart after witnessing some terrible things in Iraq.” The “Peace Sanctuary” garnered national attention: so much so that the National Film Board of Canada commissioned a film—“From Baghdad to Peace Country”—which premiered internationally in 2003. Houston feels that his work has made an impact on Canada’s geopolitical position towards Iraq and the Gulf War.
The Peace Sanctuary
Deryk’s trips to Iraq marked his soul. The crumbling buildings, open sewers, poverty and hospitals overflowing with the sick and dying were impossible for him to forget. Thus, he decided to create a landscape art project to raise awareness of the plight in Iraq. Wanting a remote location–so that people who have to put in effort and commitment to find it–he began researching a suitable location. He even called the famous Canadian author, Farley Mowat. Surprisingly, the provincial government was the most helpful suggesting the dunes near Hudson’s Hope. With support from the provincial and local government he began building in earnest.
With his nine year old son Samuel, a ball of twine, wooden stakes, a dirt bike and a D9 Cat operated by Phil Kirtzinger they laid out a design that was approximately 1000 feet across, containing 4 concentric rings with a mother (holding) child and dove motif at the center. While Deryk oversaw the operation from a high point, Phil roughed out the design by pushing and piling the sand–basically a massive sand sculpture. Deryk explained it to me this way:
“I love the ancient Nazca lines and their simplicity. I also love the mother and child image that we see so often throughout time. The central image is a simple circle of the mother’s head and the child’s head. The hand of the mother cradles the child’s head. There is also the shape of a dove. The outer circles are ripples. How we hope to effect change in our world.”
This costly project was funded out of Deryk’s pocket and took a few days to complete. Much later, he visited the site, but sadly ATV’s, dirt bikes and wind had pounded the earthwork into obscurity. However, like peace itself, this monument to the people of Iraq is not hidden: it can still be seen in Google Earth today!
Post Script: The “Peace Garden,” Woodwynn Farms
Houston continues to create thought-provoking and interactive landscape art. His latest piece is the “Woodwynn Farm Peace Garden,” near Victoria, BC. This stunning labyrinth is a collaborative effort of Houston, Elizabeth Wellburn (his wife) and Richard Leblanc, the farm director. Woodwynn Farm is a therapeutic community for the homeless and those struggling with mental health and addictions.
Personal correspondence and telephone conversation with Deryk Houston, July-August 2017.
“From Baghdad to Peace Country,” directed by Sherry LePage. http://www.nfb.ca/film/from_baghdad_to_peace_country/.
Deryk Houston’s Art Gallery website: http://www.derykhouston.com/.
Nestled between the Rocky and Monashee Mountains, Valemount, British Columbia, has great outdoor adventure opportunities minus the crowds. You can camp, ride and paddle the endless shoreline of Kinbasket Lake, relax in a rustic cabin with great mountain views or fatbike and hike the Canoe River sand roads. If you want to get away from the National and Provincial Park crowds, then grab your gear and head to Valemount this summer!
Kinbasket Lake is a massive reservoir on the Columbia river system that extends hundreds of kms south to Golden and Revelstoke.The northern tip is only 25 kms east of Valemount and can be accessed via Highway 5 South, Cedarside rd., and the Canoe River Forest Service rd. This latter road runs along the east side of the lake, providing access to numerous Forest Service Rec Sites such as Yellowjacket, Horse Creek and Canoe Reach Marina. The lake is flanked by the Monahee Mts. to the west and the Rockies to the east: needless to say the views are stunning. You can explore kms of shoreline on foot (where sturdy foot wear) or by mountain bike (fatbikes work best on the large gravels and stones that line the shore).
2. Rustic Cabins
Valemount is small community with numerous hotels and rental cabins. We stayed at Twin Peaks Twin Peaks Resort, which arguably has the best view of the mountains. With super comfortable cabins, great “chill-out” decks and low rates, Twin Peaks Resort is a must visit locale.
3. Sand and Sun
If you love sand and sun then you will love Valemount. This area lies within the rain shadow of the Monashee Mts. and is hot and dry. More than that, the community sits on sand that washed out of a massive lake during the post-glacial melt. Explore the unique sand dune ecosystem at Jackman Flat Provincial Park or if you have a Fatbike you can ride numerous pure sand forest service roads that criss-cross the valley. Park at the end of Cranberry Lake rd., riding south to the Upper Canoe Forest Service rd. Outside of Maui, this is the finest sand that I have ever seen.
Valemount’s endless shorelines, sandy roads and trails, rustic rental cabins and serious lack of crowds is a must-visit spot for those who like to explore off the beaten track. This community also has its own Three Ranges Brewing where you can get a pint or fill your growler for only $11 including tax. Wow! Downhill mountain bikers will love the up and coming Valemount Mountain Bike Park with its convenient shuttle service. Enjoy Valemount this summer.
Just an hour west of Prince George is a fantastic ridgetop roller coaster ride through gnarly Douglas fir overlooking scenic lakes and wetlands called the Telegraph Trail. Built in 1865 by the Western Union Telegraph Company, this trail was supposed to connect North America to Russia via thousands of kms of poles, copper wire and ceramic insulators. Abandoned in 1936, this route is now an ideal multi-use outdoor adventure trail.
In 1865, the Western Union Telegraph Company began building a telegraph line that would connect North America to Russia. Called the Collin’s Overland Telegraph, this primitive electrical communication system would run from the United States, through British Columbia and Alaska, across the Behring Strait, terminating at the mouth of the Amoor River, in Eastern Russia where it would connect to St. Petersburg via 7000 miles of existing line.
Sadly, this ambitious project was abandoned not long after it started because in September 1866, WUTC’s competitor completed a Transatlantic Telegraph. North America could now speed dial Europe, but not on Collin’s line. Thousands of kilometers of poles, copper wire and insulators lay dormant until 1902 when the Yukon Telegraph Company took over the line. Radio communication ended the use of telegraphs in 1936.
This trail can be accessed at the Hogsback Lake Forest Service Recreation Site, 20 km south of Vanderhoof. From Prince George follow HWY 16 West, turning west on Mapes rd., then southeast on the Blackwater rd. and lastly south on Hogsback Lake rd. Follow the gravel road east until the last campsite (with outhouse). The trailhead is just to the east of the picnic table.
This trail runs along a steep sided ridge on the north and east side of Hogsback and McKay lakes. It is characterized by steep, short gravelly/sandy climbs and descents and flowy flat sections. There are great viewpoints looking south across the Nechako plateau towards the Telegraph Mt. range. Old Douglas fir, dead lodgepole pine and trembling aspen line the trail, clinging precariously to the steep slopes. Red stem feather moss, Kinickinic, juniper and birch leaved spirea cover the sandy forest floor.
McKay lake has a great campsite that could easily fit several tents.
The Telegraph Route
Construction of the British Columbia section of the telegraph, from New Westminster to Quesnel, began in 1863. Two years later, a thirty-man survey team lead by Major Frank L. Pope began surveying the Quesnel to Tatla Lake section travelling by foot, mule and canoe. The construction team, lead by Edward Conway, followed Pope’s crew brushing out the trail, selecting suitable trees for poles and hanging insulators and wire. Telegraph stations were constructed along the 365 mile line including one at Bobtail Lake, Blackwater Crossing and Bulkley House (Tatla Lake).
Pope estimated distances, measured elevations and angles along the entire route, producing elaborate reports and maps that were sent to Colonel Charles P. Bulkley, the Chief Engineer. He also recorded details about First Nations, animals and plants as well as geographic features. Pope recommended that the line be built alongside lakeshores when possible. He reasoned that these areas were more accessible, the trees more windfirm and the line easier to construct.
While many of the telegraph poles have fallen over and rotted, you can still find some artifacts such as this white ceramic insulator. Keep your eyes up, you may see a veteran Douglas fir with some copper wire still clinging to it.
If you looking for some two-wheeled or legged adventure then check out the Telegraph Trail at Hogsback Lake. Pack a lunch, plenty of water and be prepared for some short, tough climbs: the ridge top views are worth the effort!
If your a beginner mountain biker then check out these must-know tips from one of Canada’s top outdoor adventure bloggers, Leigh McAdam Mountain Bike Tips for Beginners.
British Columbia is well-known for its forests, mountains and coastline, however, it also has extensive grasslands and sage brush country that provides some fantastic mountain biking and bike packing. With plenty of cacti, cattle and creek beds, these grasslands are your home for adventure by bike.
Dog Creek lies within the Fraser River Valley, approximately one hour south of William’s Lake. This area is characterized by rolling grass covered plateaus dotted with stunted, gnarly Douglas fir, juniper, sage brush and prickly pear cactus. The landscape is criss-crossed with steep walled gullies and dry creek beds. While portions of this area are owned by the Douglas Lake Cattle Ranch Company (owned by a US billionaire), it lies within the traditional territory of the Dog Creek/Canoe First Nation (Stswecem’c Xsat’tem ‘tn). Please respect their land by closing gates and heeding “no trespassing signs.”
Looking south towards the Fraser River Valley.
Some of the larger gullies have ATV tracks along the edges. This sage brush lined gully heads downslope to the Fraser River.
The larger gullies have small clearings that provide shelter from the wind and kindling for an evening fire. For an aromatic experience add a little fresh sage to your fire.
Looking west across the plateau.
The relentless wind, exposure to the cold and poor soils stunt the fir trees that dot the landscape.
Two firs fighting for survival. Even when half-dead, the one on the right provides perfect perches for raptors hunting field mice.
This young deer did not survive the winter or predators. The gullies are full of bone piles. A local rancher told me that many of these bones are from cattle that died years ago before they were routinely brought in for the winter. They used horses in those days, but now they use ATVs.
Prickly pear cacti cover the grasslands. I quickly learned that you should stick to the old roads and game/cattle trails. Once you go off trail you get into the cactus. I had to stop every one hundred meters or so to knock these sticky suckers off my tires. For longer trips, stick to well worn trails otherwise you will spend all your time fixing flats.
This spring has been cold, windy and wet. Every hour or so a cold wind would pick up, blowing a storm east across the plateau, then lightly rain on the upslope areas. The temperature dropped below zero at night: my winter sleeping bag was worth its weight!
Sunset over stormy mountains.
A lone horse greeted me on my return trip. These are not “petting farm” horses. They are wild and wary of dudes on bikes. Keep your distance.
For more information about mountain biking in the Cariboo-Chilcotin region of British Columbia go to the Williams Lake Discovery Center Website. Next time you visit this community stop in at this unique visitor center and grab one of the many maps of the region. Also check out the fantastic all inclusive mountain bike tour of the south Chilcotin offered by the Mountain Equipment CoOp.
The iconic “cut banks” at the end of North Nechako road is your gateway to outdoor adventure. With miles of roads and trails, wildlife, scenic springs and ranches, and a fascinating history, the North Nechako-Miworth area is an ideal Ride the Wild location!
You can start your adventure at two places; the end of North Nechako road or from the McPhee/Chief Lake road junction. Once you pass the cut banks, North Nechako becomes the Takla Forest Service Road, which heads north west, upslope, to McPhee then north to Chief Lake road. A spur road runs south of Takla, just above the river, providing several access point to the Nechako river for the more adventurous (or those who like bush wacking).
Looking west down the cut banks
There is some great winter riding in this area. Takla road is plowed up to the junction of the second access road on the left. Some members of the Lheidli T’enneh First Nation live on-site at Clesbaoneecheck or Fort George Indian Reserve # 3. The Nechako river valley, as well as all of Prince George, lies within the traditional area of this First Nation. Please respect the land and those that live on it.
Some swans on Duck LAke
Local First Nations hunted for caribou, ducks and geese, as well as trapped and fished in this area. Indeed, as late as the 1900s there was a camp at Duck Lake where Lheidli T’enneh hunters lived. During the summer, Chief Louis also kept his horses here, so that they could graze on the grasses that covered the floodplain alongside of the river.
In the early 20th century, settlers built a reaction ferry that could transport people across the river. People could take the train from Prince George to Miworth (on the east side of the river) and for a few cents take the ferry across. A reaction ferry consisted of two large connected pontoons that were attached to a cable system running from one side of the river to the other. The remains of this ferry can still be seen on the west shore of the big bend of the Nechako, opposite Wilkins Park.
Looking down McPhee Road
One of the ranches on McPhee Road
Looking east towards the bench land above the Nechako river valley
Some fallow pasture
McPhee creek is a small fish-bearing stream that descends to the Nechako river. Just upstream of the second bridge are a series of springs. The warmer spring water prevents the river from freezing over during the winter.
Winter on the McPhee
McPhee creek crossing # 2
This area is rich in diversity. Eagles, kingfishers, ducks, swans, herons, moose, deer, bear (grizzly and black) and wolves all inhabit the river valley and rich riparian areas. There is some great eagle viewing in the cottonwood trees just before and after the cut banks.
A winter wolf kill
This campsite provides great access to the Nechako river. First Nations and other locals often fish the Stuart River sockeye run at this spot. You can get to this camp by taking the spur road that runs south of Takla road, across the creek, then down the second trail on your left. This steep, short trail ends right at the river. Use flies or lures, casting from shore into the deep pools: you may catch a resident rainbow trout.
Are you interested in kicking your outdoor adventure up, a few notches? Then check out the University of Northern British Columbia’s Northern BC Adventures. From ghost towns to grizzly bears, these educational adventures get you into some of the most inaccessible places in northwest BC.
If you want to avoid crowds and a get a winter wilderness riding experience only 30 minutes from downtown Prince George, then load up your FATBIKE and head out to the snowmachine trails on the east side of Tabor Lake and George Mountain. These trails provide access to the lakes, backcountry cabins, scenic views, tough climbs, thrilling descents and the spectacular Tabor Mt. Recreation Area. Pack your winter survival gear and let’s ride!
Tabor Lake Trails
The east side of Tabor Lake has some fantastic winter riding on packed snowmachine trails as well as easy access to a lakeside camping and picnic spot. Park at the junction of Giscome and Groveburn road and ride south for approx. 3.5 km, past the gravel pit and the Tabor Mt. Forest Service Rd. junction. Approx. 100 meters past Tabor Mt. Creek, turn west on the narrow trail heading into the bush. This trail descends for several kms through birch, aspen and spruce stands, narrowing as it gets closer to the lake.
This campsite and picnic area provides a great view of the west side of the lake as well as space for several tents. You can explore the lake shore looking for animals tracks or simply chill out with a hot cup of coffee.
Shear ice can only be ridden with studded fat tires. However, crusty textured ice with a few inches of snow or sticky hard packed snow can be easily ridden with standard tires.
Looking north down the lake
This Pine Marten was undoubtedly hunting Snowshoe Hares along the shoreline.
These trails are not only used by snowmachines, x-country skiers and fatbikers but also wolves and moose.A winter wolf kill?
The wildest snow pillow I have ever seen.
George Mt. Trails
George Mt. lies just to the south of Tabor Mt., and is within the Tabor Mt. Recreation Area. This 1200 meter mountain has great southern and western views and can be accessed by a series of well-maintained ATV/snowmachine trails; thanks to the efforts of the PG Snowmobile Club. This club is located at the end of Scott Rd., just north of the big turn on Buckhorn Rd.
The PG Snowmobile Club parking area provides access to the trail network to the east. Alternatively, you can access these trails at the end of Klein Rd., a right (south) turn just before the big bend on Scott Rd.
Your gateway to a fatbiking adventure! This trailhead connects to a whole series of trails that run in all directions. Be sure to use the Tabor Mt. Recreation Society map or a handheld GPS device. To the south of the clubhouse is the Schlitt Trail, named after the Schlitt Brothers Mill which operated in this area during the 1960s, which runs south then east to the summit. This mill survived the massive 1961 “Grove Burn” fire that started to the west on the Buckhorn Rd. This fire destroyed 23,000 acres of timber including almost all of Tabor Mt. At the same time another large fire burned to the east destroying an additional 33,000 acres of timber. Needles to say it was hot and smokey summer. A gentle climb through some aspen, birch, fir and lodgepole pine stands.The Dougherty Creek crossing on the “Dorothy Trail.”
Fatbiking snowmachine trails is great winter adventure. In early winter, be sure to ride at least 10 days after a bid dump of snow. This will ensure that the trail is well packed by snowmachines. In late winter and early spring, fatbike in the morning when the snowpack is frozen or crusty: this will make for some fast riding! Be prepared for some pushing or “hike-a-bike” and always tell someone where you are going.
For more info about the fantastic ATV/snowmachine trail networks throughout the Prince George area check out the PG ATV Club.
Trees and forests are iconic. From the Haida First Nation’s “Golden Spruce,” to the Druid’s “Sacred Oak” to 19th century Vancouver’s “Carey Fir,” trees have played a significant role in the material and cultural lives of people for millennia. As a former forestry consultant and all-around forest dweller, trees have played a significant role in my life standing as witness’s to my past, present and future. Think of a what a 300 year Douglas fir has seen, let alone a 1000 year old western red cedar? Enjoy some of my favorite trees. Perhaps you know where they are? These awesome organisms need no explanation.
If you would like to know how you can experience these trees yourself, send me an email.
When I explore BC’s backcountry, backroads and trails I typically encounter stunning forest-clad mountains, rivers, lakes and wildlife. Every now and then, however, I encounter the bizarre, unexplained, odd and even creepy. Check out these nine images and let me know what you think?
I found this demented frog doll on the Greenway trail one Spring. Can you imagine giving this to a child?
These guys thought driving to Goat Island on the Fraser river was a good idea.
I’m not sure what this is about, but apparently there are no moose down this road, west of Vivian Lake.
How did this abandoned van near McPhee road get flipped?
This roofless and doorless cabin is near UNBC.
This strange pipe is 20 km down the Bowron Forest Service Road. I wonder if there is a bunker down there?
An even bigger pipe near McPhee creek. This would make a great shelter!
What’s for dinner?
Smokey keeping the temperature low near Tatlayoko Lake, BC.
Northern winters are cold. Add two-wheeled adventure, wind chill and sweat and you have a bone chilling recipe. I wear standard wool or synthetic base layers with a breathable shell (pants and coat), plus thin finger gloves underneath large insulated mitts. However, my feet still get cold even when wearing insulated winter boots. I have discovered two simple remedies that has extended my riding time during -20 C winter days: insulated water bottles and neoprene socks. These two simple solutions will keep you rolling during cold winter rides.
INSULATED WATER BOTTLES AND CAGES
Staying hydrated during winter riding not only helps with muscle performance, but also maintains your core temperature. Zefal’s Arcticainsulated water bottles give you several hours of unfrozen water even at -20 C. Another option is to keep your water bottle in an insulated water bottle cage. Bar Mitt’s Winter Bot is a bottle cage within a 5 mm neoprene, zippered case. It too, keeps water unfrozen for several hours. Another way to extend your water life is to fill your bottle with HOT WATER. It’s free and actually works. It will also help to increase your core temperature.
Neoprene socks act as vapor barriers preventing evaporation and cooling. I wear Mountain Equipment Co Op’s inexpensive, three millimeter sock over a merino wool wicking sock. A wicking layer is critical because you want to minimize the amount of sweat clinging to your feet. I can ride longer and more comfortably with neoprene socks.
Freeze-thaw cycles are now a regular part of northern BC winters. Well used trails –especially those with a south aspect and open forest canopy—often ice over long before spring. Frozen lakes sometimes have shear ice or only a thin layer of uncohesive powder. These slippery situations can be avoided by wearing strap on cleats. I wear heel cleats on my cold winter boots and full-length cleats on my low cuts during warmer weather. Ice cleats allow you to get on and off of your bike without that annoying lateral slippage and they are essential for steep icy sections.
Neoprene socks and insulated water bottles will extend your winter rides. Ice cleats, will minimize dangerous slips on icy trails. However, acclimatization is also critical. Keep riding, even at -25 C. Wear lots of layers, and start peeling them off as your body temperature increases. Your body will eventually adapt and when it warms up, you will be riding with just a base layer, sweater and long tights!
For more info on winter fatbiking check out my post Winter Fatbike Fun at Outbound.com. Also, join my Facebook page Fatbike Freaks and get the latest info about fatbikes, gear and winter riding.
Cold, blue-steel skies. The rhythmic sound of the drive train. The soft crunch of tires on -20 Celsius snow. Winter fatbiking can be an intense visual and tactile experience. More than that, you can access places that you just can’t get to during the summer and fall. Frozen lakes, wetlands and shorelines are just some of the cool features of winter riding in northern British Columbia. Get your boots and gloves on and lets ride.
Riding the perimeter of a frozen lake is a fantastic way of seeing something familiar but from a different perspective. Shoreline vegetation is dormant, naked and brittle brown. The deep is covered by a crunchy blanket of white. The lake seems less mysterious and more one dimensional. If you pick a remote lake, you will see no one: it can be quite eerie.
Animals are much easier to locate and track in the winter. Moose, red fox, coyotes, wolves and other species stand out against the frozen landscape. These bizarre tracks crossed the lake for a hundred meters then disappeared into an alder-choked wetland.
Forests look different in the winter. This stand of snow-pressed balsam fir and spruce collapsed over the trail taunting me to, “run the gauntlet.” I made it through unscathed. Mature conifers regularly fall down across the trail. No one, as far as I know, has ever been crushed on these trails.
Snow covered single track becomes smooth and flowy, once the roots, rocks and depressions are covered and packed down. There is very little snow this year, and these trails still rattle your cage.
Winter riding takes more effort and calories, especially on a fatbike with five inch tires. My legs burned during my first winter.
Winter is a relief from the always present bruin. If you live in grizzly and black bear country, you get to put away your bear spray after November. Oh yeah, the bugs are gone as well.
Building a fire, making hot coffee and starring at the embers is a great reward on a cold day. Humans have been doing this for millennia. The communal fire is where stories were told, wisdom shared and identity created: fire is primal. Take some time from your hectic, high-tech life to do this.
Winter riding can be intensely cold but also visually stunning. Frozen fingers and toes are offset by access to new areas, sights, sounds and experiences. In the next couple of month looks for posts on how to stay warm while winter riding as well as essential gear for Riding the Wild!
The Tsus Lakes are a tiny lake chain in the heart of the northern Caribou mountains. Nestled between Spring mountain’s three peaks and an unnamed pyramid-shaped mountain to the south, this valley has some fantastic views and is an easy 25 km ride from the parking area. The Tsus Lakes are perfect for the adventure mountain biker or bikepacker.
The Tsus Lakes valley is west of the Bowron river and only 62 km east of Prince George. Turn on the Cutoff Road Forest Service Road on the south side of the highway just before the Bowron River bridge. You can either park by the highway pullout or a few kilometers down the road at the CoalmineForest Service Road junction.
Matt and I picked a cool and sunny fall day to explore this area. The Coalmine FSR runs east towards the Bowron river, then south. The first dozen kilometers are characterized by a rolling plateau through stands of young lodgepole pine, aspen and some spruce. We found some cool sand dunes on the east side of the road, not far from where we parked. Matt was thrilled to ride his brand new fatbike on these dunes. A lone wolf liked the dunes as well!
An interesting mountain peak in the Bowron river valley.
Looking west towards Spring mountain. There is a great campsite at this un-named lake.Some snow-capped mountains off in the distance. The access road to the Tsus Lakes valley is a deactivated road that branches off of the Coalmine FSR. This is a rarely used road that narrows to ATV width. All the culverts and bridges have been removed which makes for some fun stream crossings.
A narrow track winds through the trees down to the campsite on northern most lake. There are some great views of the tree clad mountains to the west. It is unusual to see un-logged terrain anywhere in the Prince George region. There is a great campsite beside the lake as well.
As you ride west along the lake chain, you begin to gain elevation. The toe slope on the east side has transitional welt-belt ecosystems with mature western red cedar, hemlock and a thick moss-covered forest floor.
As you approach the last lake, the trail becomes crowded with alder saplings. Be sure to wear eye and hand protection.
The sun was behind us on the ride home. I’m always smiling when riding.
With picturesque lakes, forest-clad slopes and snow-covered mountain peaks, the Tsus Lakes area is fantastic for day-tripping or overnight bike camping. Be sure to use Google Earth for route planning and carry a SPOT GPS Device when riding.
You can learn about blogging or publishing your adventures, at UNBC’s upcoming Outdoor Adventure Writing and Blogging Workshop at our Prince George campus. Taught by veteran adventurer Vivien Lougheed, this class and field-based workshop will help you take transform your outdoor experiences and photos into a compelling written narrative.
This October I took a road trip to Canmore, Alberta to participate in the first ever “Bike Pack Summit,” a conference that focused on adventuring riding or mountain bike touring (multi-day trips on a mtb). I drove and rode some of the most spectacular scenery that western Canada has to offer including Mcbride, BC, Jasper National Park, the Columbia ice fields, Banff National Park and Canmore. Join me while we Ride the Wild!
A beam of light passes over my bike during an early morning sunrise stop at McBride’s Beanery 2 Bistro.
During World War 2, this glacier was only a few hundred meters from the parking area on Highway 93 South.
Crushed by a glacier and beaten down by the wind, these moraines consist of hard packed, frozen sand and gravel. You can easily ride along the wind packed peaks.
Looking at the terminal moraine. The glacier is just beyond this point.
In Canmore, bike shops serve coffee (sell the farm honey were moving to Canmore). Meet Adam Zeddy a mountain bike and coffee sales guy at Bicycle Cafe Canmore. He served me an awesome double Americano that was smooth, full bodied and had a caramel finish. Needles to say, I had coffee there every day!
This gathering of adventure nuts, long distance racers, back country riders and expedition junkies was colegial, informative and fun. We had sessions about bike break downs, nutrition, long distance routes, gear, riding with kids and the always contentious issue of trail access. The group rides…well check out the photos they tell it all.
The view from Rebound Cycle.
Crossing the Bow River while riding the Legacy Trail.
A Group ride traffic jam.
When I smile like this I’m really happy!
The Three Sisters mountains and a Fatbike.
I pushed my bike up this section for approx. 1 km before realizing that I was on the wrong trail. Needless to say, I never caught up with the group ride.
I thought this washout would be a great shortcut back to the valley bottom.
Between a rock and a great place!
If your interested in learning more about multi-day mountain bike trips into the backcountry then attend next years Canmore Bikepack Summit. Go to their Facebook page for more info.
British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley also has some great trails to explore. Browse Four to Explore Trails in the Okanagan on Flightnetwork.com’s travel blog and plan your next adventure to this hot and dry part of the province.
Winter is right around the corner and now I am preparing for a several winter Ride the Wild adventures. Here are some of my favorite photos from this last year. Enjoy!
The Fraser River at low water These guys should have been riding fatbikes instead of a fatcat SUV!
The Buckhorn area, southeast of Prince George, has some great views of the Caribou Mountain Range to the east.
Need I say more?
The Bear Lake area, north or Prince George, has some great sand riding. This area was the northern shoreline of a glacial lake that once covered the central interior following the big melt during the late Pleistocene.
Jasper National Park has tonnes of trails and great views.
Did I say Northern BC? Sorry, this kitsch shot is from Audra Petersen’s rental cabin in the Tatlayoko Valley, southwest of Williams Lake.
Light at the end of the tunnel
The slopes east and west of Okanagan Lake, in Kelowna, provide some fantastic and interesting views.
The Chub Lake area, just south of Prince George, has some great country riding through pastures and aspen stands. You may even run into other kinds of riders.
The Beatton River Valley, east of Fort St. John, has some big visuals if your willing to push your bike up a %45 slope for a kilometer or more.
My bike was impounded recently and I was charged with “having too much fun” at Heart Lake Provincial Park in the heart of the Rockies.
Grey craggy peaks, forest clad slopes and a crystal clear lake paved with cobblestones awaits you in the Chilcotin. If you’re a bikepacker or adventure rider who likes rustic rental cabins and old fashioned western hospitality, then Tatlayoko Lake should be your next weekend getaway.
This glacier-fed lake lies between the coast mountain’s “Niut Range” and the interior’s “Potatoe Range,” three hours southwest of William’s Lake. Tatlayoko Valley is south facing and covered with Douglas fir, pine, trembling aspen and grassy meadows filled with lazy cattle. This is a ranching community with approximately 75 mailboxes, but many go unused. The lake is also a hot windsurfing destination.
We rented a rustic loft from Audra Peterson, a local school teacher and former ecologist. Audra and her partner Don live off of home-grown veggies and wild game. They are healthy, wonderful people.
Every morning a friendly mountain horse and an intense sunrise to the west greeted us. Coffee and oatmeal never tasted so good.
Rustic outbuildings with snowshoes, antlers and skulls dotted the ranch. All the major apex predators such as black and grizzly bear as well as wolves inhabit this area. Old logging roads provide access to the slopes on both sides of the valley and lake. The lake is any easy seven kilometer ride from the cabin. If you continue riding south down Tatlayoko road you will find some great Forest Service Recreation sites as well as a community picnic area with outhouses, beach access and even a ball diamond (only used by deer at this point).
The north and east shores of the lake are perfect for exploration on a fatbike or any mountain bike with 3 inch or bigger tires. We found deer and bear tracks along the shore. The meadows and wetlands to the north of the lake are a critical Grizzly bear corridor.
Range fences seem to run forever down the valley.
The entire west side of the lake is a Nature Conservancy conservation zone that is jointly managed for ranching and biodiversity values.
I am definitely revisiting this area next summer for a 3 day bikepack traverse around the lake. I can’t wait to sleep on the beach! For more info about this area check out:
This stunning waterfall is only a 2.5 hour drive northwest of Prince George. With roadside parking, a smooth 1 km single-track through a spruce and fir forest and accessible swimming, War Falls on the McLeod River may be the best waterfall in the region. If you add a 10 km ride to Carp Lake, you have a great summer day trip for the adventure mountain biker!
From Prince George, drive approximately 2 hours north on the Yellowhead Highway and follow the signs west into the First Nations community of McLeod Lake. Cross the bridge, drive past the large gas bar and continue west on Carp Lake road. For the first few km’s, the well-maintained gravel road runs through a logged area, then narrows and winds through the timber until the trail head at the 23 km mark. This narrow section is quite scenic.
Single-track trail heading down into the river valleyFirst set of falls
Second set of falls
The last set of falls can be observed from a small platform with access to a rocky beach
Looking downstream to the northeast
We met Luke and Nicole at the falls. They walked into the falls with their clothes and boots on and swam around for quite a while. We spent several hours swimming in the falls and exploring the riparian area, downstream. Carp Lake Provincial Park is an easy ride approximately 10 km west of the falls. War Lake is half-way between the falls and Carp Lake. It has a nice beach and camping area.
My typical speed on my Specialized Fatboy fatbike
Carp Lake is a wilderness lake, with only one access. There are campsites, up on a bench, along the eastern edge of the lake. Small trails descend 50 or so meters to docks along the lake. There are also campsites that you can boat to.
Chillin on the dockDwarf Blueberries alongside the road
Fore more information about War Falls and Carp Lake Provincial Park go to:
No, the Nuxalk-Carrier Grease Trail is not a slick, clayey brake clogging trail, but rather one that runs from the Fraser River, south of Prince George, to Bella Coola, west of the coast mountains. The grease is “Oolichan oil,” or the oil extracted by First Nations from a tiny ocean fish called the Oolichan (candle fish). This precious commodity was traded between coastal and interior First Nations via. an extensive trail network. Alexander Mackenzie utilized this trail (after being guided by local First Nations) on his famous expedition to the Pacific in the 1770s. Hence the trails secondary name: the Alexander Mackenzie Trail.
I accessed the trail at the 107 km on the Batnuni Forest Service Road. This single-track and ATV trail winds through some beautiful country and makes a fantastic day trip for the adventure rider.
This trail begins on a narrow bench of pine and spruce, paralleling the road, then quickly descends into a lowland with a series of wetlands of varying size, just north of Cotsworth Lake. Almost immediately you have to cross a slow moving creek-so be prepared to get wet.
Creek crossing # 1.
After the first crossing, the trail runs along a small ridge that skirts most of the wetlands. The grass covered trail and white trembling aspens contrast sharply against the blue sky and grey waters.
Eventually, you have to cross another creek, this one was thigh deep and running a lot faster. Check out the video of my dangerous river crossing!
Unless you want to join Alice in Wonderland, I don’t recommend eating the Pantheramanitas growing alongside the trail
Yarrow grows alongside the trail. At approximately 6 kms the trail crosses another channel between two wetlands, just south of the east end of Titetown Lake. While only two feet deep, this crossing is about 60 meters wide!
Scattered alongside of the trail are many trees with old blazes on them. Called Culturally Modified Trees (CMT) by Archaeologists, some of these trees were scarred by local First Nations (Nazko) to mark the location of a trail or to harvest cambium (inner bark), an important source of carbohydrates. Some are so old that they have completely healed over.
Time to dry out the shorts.
You can ride the Nuxalk-Carrier Grease trail aprroximately 20 km to Kluskoil Lake, and farther, or take the ATV track the ascends onto a ridge that runs along the east side of Titetown Lake. This part of the trail affords some great views of the lake and the Nechako plateau as well as the tiny community that lives nearby.
Titetown Lake community.
An ever present reminder that bikes will outlive cars!
The Nuxalk-Carrier Grease Trail is a smooth relaxing ride through some beautiful wetland and lake country only a couple hours south of Prince George. It has numerous campsites, good access and is rarely used. For more info about this trail go to..
Well known for its Grizzly bears and caribou, Grizzly Bear or Red Mnt. towers over the historic community of Penny, a couple hours east of Prince George. To the west, of this peak is a fully stocked public cabin primarily used by backcountry skiers. The 12 km ride into this cabin is ideal for the self-sufficient adventure mountain biker who is willing to gravel grind up some tough trails. This cabin provides great access into the McGregor Mnts. alpine tundra and views of extensive subalpine parkland.
First opened in 1916, the Penny post office serviced the community that developed alongside the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway. Today, mail is delivered to the 10 or so people that live in this community via the CN Railway Company. The route (ignore my detour to the west of the main trail).
This ATV width trail begins just few hundred meters north of the post office and winds through a rolling bench for several kms then descends into Red Mnt. Creek. This area is the northern tip of BC’s Temperate Inland Rainforest and is dominated by large, old western red cedars. Riding through these towering cedars is like riding through the columns in a medieval cathedral.
This cabin was closed for the season.
Time to load up on the carbs.
Like the trail itself, the railing of the Red Mnt. Creek bridge appears to go on forever.
Eventually the trail leaves the rolling toe slope and switchbacks steeply upslope for several kms. There are some good viewpoints of the Fraser River and the McGregor Mnts. to the south.Where’s the trail?
Be prepared to push your bike uphill from the 10.5 km marker to the cabin at 12 km. This section is the steepest part of the ride and my legs simply couldn’t do it, but maybe yours could. At 3200 feet elevation, you get great views of the subalpine parkland to the north. At 5000 feet you begin to descend into a depression where the cabin is located.
After 6 hours and 19 minutes I finally arrived at the cabin!
So why did I haul my camp stove and pot uphill for 6 hours? This cabin is fully stocked with everything you need to spend the night (except your food and clothes).
A killer view from the dillapitated outhouse. Please note that there was no toilet paper!
The trail through towering cedars, views, access to subalpine parkland and the “all inclusive” cabin makes this grueling 12 km ride worthwhile. While I didn’t see any grizzly bear, I did see a white wolf on the ride down: perhaps a good sign for my next adventure? For more information about this trail and the public cabin check out:
McBride Mnt., located approximately 2.5 hrs east of Prince George, is a tough climb but has some interesting alpine areas to explore as well as fantastic views of the Rocky Mnts. and Robson Valley. On the drive we decided to drop in at the Goat River historic trail for a bit of a warm up.
Dave and I geared up on a cool and cloudy Saturday afternoon
The Goat River Trail was first used by First Nations as a route between the Upper Fraser River and the Bowron Lakes area. CPR surveyors and miners kept this trail open during the mid to late-1800s. We accessed the trail at the parking lot adjacent to the outlet of the Milk River. However, it became clear that this trail was not MTB friendly.
The junction of the Milk and Goat River
Quartz CreekDave crushin it through dense thimbleberry, alder and cow parsnip
The trail was characterized by muddy, brush-covered single-track with large smooth slippery boulders and skinny’s over marshy, mucky sections. Dave bailed and later told me that he had bruised ribs from a soccer game:/ We pushed our bikes most of the time. After a couple of kms we decided to take a quick picture at the Goat River and head back. Note to self: this is a hiking trail only! Off to McBride Mnt.
While one could ride the full 12 km road to the start of the alpine, we decided to park at the 6 km cabin where we would spend the night.
The road up McBride Mnt. is hard packed sand and gravel, with many sections of loose gravels and stones with exposed angular bed rock. It is also steep, running minimum 7% and some times up to 15% slope.
Typical steep switch back
The views improve as you ascend the mountain
It was raining in the Robson Valley as we road out of the subalpine
At 12 km, we began a tough 2 km push into the alpine. The summit of McBride Mnt. was in the clouds.
Looking west at an alpine ridge
Made it to the rebuilt fire lookout
The weather began to turn as we reached the fire lookout. The temperature dropped to about 5 degrees C and the wind picked up. We decided to head back to the cabin. It snowed in the alpine later that weekend. Needless to say the 8 km downhill ride was fast and bumpy-my hands were aching by the time we reached the cabin.
This is one of the best, easily accessed campsites that I have every been to. Check out the views…
Looking south into the Rockies
Sweet and spicy peanut sauce on rice noodles with pepperoni. A bikepacking standard for me.
Getting out of the rain
While Dave and I were setting up camp, two guys rolled in on road bikes. Meet John and Brad: two Californians who came to BC to ride all of its toughest mountain peaks (25 I think). They are part of a cycling community called Pjammcycling. They had no idea that the road up McBride Mnt. was unpaved-but they road it anyways. We had a chat, shared some dinner and wished them well. These guys are hard core!
McBride Mnt. is a tough ride, but provides awesome access to the alpine and great camping. For more info check out:
The Willow River Canyon area, just east of Prince George, is a fantastic bikepacking destination, perfect for a weekend adventure. Join us as we ride the Tabor Mt. trails east to the canyon and then down into the Willow River.
The Tabor Mt. Recreation Area is 25 km’s east of Prince George and is bounded by Hwy. 16 to the north, Buckhorn Rd. to the south and the Willow River, to the east. You can access this well maintained trail network at Tabor Mt. Ski Hill. Kyrke and I began our trip at the ski hill access, where we geared up and road up onto the West Touring trail. This trail runs along the toe-slope of Tabor Mt. to the X-Country ski area parking lot. This ATV width trail is characterized by rolling terrain with short uphill sections: perfect for a fatbike with 40 lbs of gear.
Kyrke getting his gear organized.
A typical section of trail.
This area receives lots of rainwater runoff and seepage from numerous upslope springs, therefore, it is lush and jungle like. Cow parsnip, black twinberry, raspberry, Goat’s beard and some Devil’s club (watch out) crowd the trail–making the ride an intense visual and olfactory experience. These sections are my favorite.
A meadow with Cow parsnip and Ox-eyed daisy’s.
The West Touring trail runs for 2 km until the x-country ski area parking lot. We continued east along the Hickory Wing Trail then followed the East Touring Trail, over Bowes Creek, then upslope along the Martin Trail.
Bowes Creek bridge.
The Martin Trail and Willow River Canyon Trail junction.
At this point we had to backtrack because the Willow River Canyon Trail was covered with blown-down timber. We took a side access trail (Martin Trail connector) that ran north to Hwy. 16. We then followed Hwy. 16 east until England Creek Forest Service Road. A couple hundred meters down this road is the England Creek bridge. A single-track trail on the north side of the bridge runs east to the Willow River. At the junction of England Creek and the Willow is a great campsite that gives you access to the shore.
Looking south down the Willow River Canyon from the England Creek campsite.
A small waterfall on the England.
From here simply rode back to the Hwy. and then east for a few km’s until the Willow North Forest Service road. This road will take you to several access points along the Willow.
This large camping area provides hundred of meters of riverfront access and is suitable for tents and hammocks. There is plenty of dead fall, so firewood is available. One way to reduce weight while bikepacking is to not carry a stove. I cook all my meals over a fire.
Collecting firewood by bike.
There is nothing better than chiliin out with a cold beer in BC’s wilderness!
Sunset over the Willow.
We rode the full 48 km’s back to Prince George. This is a relatively easy ride and the westbound shoulder is wide enough that one feels safe. One interesting stop along the way is the Tabor Mt. Wildlife Viewing platform. This area is on the north side of the road, adjacent the Martin Trail connector. Accessed by a 200 meter single-track trail that runs through a young stand of aspen, spruce and fir, this viewing platform provides some nice visual corridors of Tabor Mt.
Looking southwest towards Tabor Mt.
Tabor Mt. and the Willow River Canyon are a great accessible adventure biking area, that are close to town. They are ideal if you just getting into bikepacking or want a a relatively easy weekend trip. Please note that there are grizzly and black bears in this area as well as cougar and wolves. My best advice would be to make lots of noise and carry bear spray. Also, let people know where you will be going and carry a SPOT GPS device. For more info on this area check out:
Northern BC has great riding, but sometimes you have to head south to ride dry, dusty trails and experience the wide-open “big sky country” vistas. Last weekend I spent three days exploring the Cariboo-Chilcotin’s trails and back country and I wasn’t disappointed. My riding began in 108 Mile House and ended near Junction Sheep Provincial Park on the Chilcotin Plateau. Check out my ride!
108 Mile House Trail Network
This ominous looking tunnel is the entrance way to a huge network of single/double track, ATV and road-width trails at the 108 Mile House historic site, on the east side of Hwy. 97. The trail heads east towards Sucker Lake through rolling grassy meadows, with patches of aspen and Douglas fir. There are some short uphill sections on the east side of the lake and plenty of grassy range land to explore.
Typical single-track and x-country ski trails.
You can spend hours riding and exploring the small ridges that run north-south throughout the range land. I did a 20 km loop around Sucker Lake.
Chasm Provincial Park
If you had shown me this picture two weeks ago, I wouldn’t have believed that it was in BC! Chasm Provincial Park, south of 100 Mile House, is a 3000 hectare valley and plateau that was carved out of a massive lava flow, by water,10 million years ago. Ponderosa pine and Douglas fir cover the rocky crags that are home to big horn sheep and mule deer.
An ATV width-trail runs along the south rim of the park then loops around through grassy Douglas fir and ponderosa pine stands. You get a great view of the canyon for almost 5 kms of trail. If you are brave enough to walk to the edge you can see where the sheep walked up the cliff onto the rim. The sheep come to feed on the pinegrass that grows beneath the trees.
A partial skull and vertebrae of a Bighorn sheep.
Lots of interesting old buildings and equipment litter the Cariboo landscape.
Bonaparte River Area
The Bonaparte River lies to the north of Chasm and has a fantastic rec site where I spent the night. The beer and spicy-peanut sauce on rice noodles was fantastic.
Junction Sheep Range Provincial Park Area
This park overlooks the junction of the Fraser and Chilcotin river and is only a 35 minute drive from Williams Lake. Bordered by a working cattle ranch, this plateau gently slopes to the south and is covered by lush grasslands and stands of Douglas fir and aspen.
In the background is the road to Bella Coola and in the foreground is a kick ass ridge top single track that runs for kilometers to the valley bottom.
The viewscapes are stunning and non-stop. Looking east.
Looking towards the park. Prickly pear cactus grows along the edge of the trail on south facing slopes–so watch your tires and shoes.
Heart-leaved arnica grows in grassy meadows underneath the fir trees.
If your lucky you may see a mountain bluebird on a high perch!
Allow yourself a full day to ride this area. Also note that the land adjacent to the access road is private and no-go. Riders are not the only users: there was a group pf backcountry horse packers there as well. Interesting comparison between hoof impacts and fat tires….
The scenery, riding, and ecosystems of BC’s Cariboo-Chilcotin area are second to none. At the end of a hard hot day of riding you can also enjoy the sunsets.
If you like a little more adventure, and are willing to ride trails wider than a breadbox, you will love the Tabor Mt. Recreation area, just 20 minutes East of Prince George. Last week Dean and I planned an epic 30 km ride that began with a 7 km climb to the old fire lookout. You can see our proposed route below.
Tabor Mt. was the scene of a massive wildfire in 1961 that burned thousands of acres of timber. Subsequent salvage logging and reforestation efforts left a patch work of roads all over the mountain. At one of the mill sites you can still see a massive sawdust pile.
In 1973, this area was designated as a multi-use recreation area. Since then, several user groups have maintained and expanded the trails. These trails are typically one-vehicle or ATV width, with no crowns or side ditching. While there are several culverts on some trails, there is plenty of surface water in the spring. The 5 km uphill to the Beaver Pond Shelter was gut-wrenching, too say the least, however, this scenic shelter and pond made the ride worthwhile. This is an awesome camping spot.
The mountain had other plans for us: the next two km’s was a treacherous trail that had turned into a stream covered with 3 feet of snow!
It was tough pushing fat bikes up snow covered streams/trails. However, the large wheel diameter and width made it much easier than a conventional mountain bike.
When we reached the ridge top, just below the summit, we were greeted by a large beaver pond that cut our trail in two. I was soaked by this point. We carefully crossed the pond along the narrow dam and bushwhacked through the the timber on the other side. Needles to say we did not ride the trail running south around the mountain, but headed down the nearest trail.
Tabor Mt. has numerous species of wildlife including black and grizzly bears, wolf, and cougar as well as moose. In the past, have found bear, wolf and cougar tracks on the same trail. The black bears were already out of hibernation walking the same trail we were riding (or attempting to ride).
Tabor Mt. and the Buckhorn area to the south has 100s of km’s of ATV tracks and old roads that can be explored for a day or several if you like sleeping in the bush.I think that this trail network is the best multi-use “front-country” recreation area in the region.
On Sunday, I was fortunate enough to ride the Alexander Mackenzie trail with Scott, Phil and Dean: three outstanding riders (I saw them for about 3 minutes over a 30 km stretch). This trail, called the Nuxalk-Carrier Grease trail by local First Nations, was a super-highway running West through the Interior Plateau and Coast Mts. that allowed Interior and Coastal First Nations to trade items such as Oolichan oil and obsidian. In fact, this trail network and First Nations guides were critical to Alexander Mackenzie’s 1793 expedition to the Pacific. Natives, from a village near the junction of the Blackwater and Fraser rivers, guided Mackenzie west along the river, then south into the Nazko area.
The Alex Mack trail is a 30 km in-out ride characterized by flowy, rolling single track with short steep uphill sections. Its ideal for all-mountain bikes and hardtails, however, fat-bikes works too!
This single-track trail heads West along a bench through stands of Douglas fir, birch and aspen. The South-facing slopes are covering with cured pine grass, juniper and some very large fir veterans. At the 36 km mark (36 km from the Fraser), the trails crosses another historic trail: the Collins Overland Telegraph trail. Surveyed and built in 1865 by the Western Union Telegraph Company, the Collins telegraph line would ambitiously link the United States and Russia. However, the project was abandoned not long after it was started.
There are some great views looking south. The short downhill sections are non-technical and quick, but you have to watch out for the trees…
Thanks to the efforts of local riders, this trail is kept open, however, there are still a couple of sections where massive firs have blown down. With a little effort even a heavy fat bike can make it over!
On the long weekend, I spent a couple of days exploring the back roads and trails in the Opatcho Lake area, just south of Prince George. In the early 1960s, a massive fire called the Tsus or Groveburn fire burned thousands of hectares in this area and Northeast to Tabor Mnt. Firefighting, salvage logging and reforestation efforts resulted in a patchwork of openings and roads. In recent years, local hiking, ATV and snowmobile clubs have maintained a network of awesome doubletrack trails and access roads.
While there was little snow on the main access road, Francis Lake was still frozen.
My plan was to ride the Francis Lake Trail for 8 km, then find a camp spot along the river, however, the snow was too deep and soft. In this case, I backtracked and rode Buckhorn road to Opatcho road, then up to the lake.
St. Marys Lake.
I had the campsite at Opatcho Lake all to myself. However, because of a cold wind coming off of the lake, I built my camp a 100 meters away in the timber.
After cutting a good supply of firewood, I had a late lunch. There is no shortage of firewood in this area and a camp stove is not necessary–this is a great way to save weight when bike packing. A good handsaw is critical however.
If you ride south along Apatcho road, you can get some great views looking east towards the Caribou Mnt. range.
That evening I watched the sunset.The temperature dropped rapidly and the overnight lows were around -4 c. The atmosphere was crystal clear and the stars, stunning! Sometime after midnight I was woken by coyote howls, followed by wolves. Great Horned and Screech owls also added to the night time symphony.
Given my research interests in Forest History I had to check out this old mill site were they processed much of the salvaged timber. Given that this site is covered with bits of metal and broken glass, my spidey senses warned me not to ride into into it: I should have listened, by the next morning I had a flat:(
Other than two trucks and an ATV that drove into the campsite, I did not see anyone else in the bush. This is typical of Northern BC. If you would like an opportunity to explore this part of the world check out UNBC’s Educational Adventure programs running this spring and summer: Educational Adventures
Interested in some northern BC adventure? Then book your flights, hotel and rental cars from FlighNetwork.com.